No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it's not the same river and he's not the same man. - Heraclitus of Ephesus (535-475BC)

Floating Markets

It all started so early! It was over 100 km to the Floating Markets and our guide had arranged for an early pickup. So early that Lidy and I were the only partakers of breakfast in the rooftop dining room. All other residents of the hotel were still (wisely) in the land of nod!

Can I have another coffee... Please?

Soon, our car arrived and we were on our way. We settled back to enjoy the ride through Bangkok's notorious early morning traffic. Eventually we found ourselves on highway 35, traveling against the flow of the hoards of commuters.

The road to nowhere

Lidy was enjoying the ride. This was to be her first trip outside of Bangkok and she was eager to see the countryside. Not only that, but we were going in style. We had our own private guide, our own private driver and were being chauffeured in a BENZ! Princess style! Wot!

I always believed I should be treated like this

Further out, into the countryside, we went and left the remains of the city behind us. As we traveled further, the sun rose higher and the heat of the day increased. Of course, as you would expect our 'Benz had excellent airconditioning.

Another road, another white line, Where are we?

Quicker than we could get our cameras out of our bags, we were there. So were three coaches full of tourists. Our private guide had planned ahead. At the landing stage, three boatmen cordoned off the tourists and shouted "Not your boat, not your boat..." at them while beckoning us to the boat at the front of the queue of longtailed boats. The tourists looked on, and a few snapped photo's of the two important dignitaries who had just arrived by 'Benz and were being conducted to the front of the queue so, as nonchalantly as we could, we walked slowly, trying to looking understatedly important and boarded the first craft.

Boarding these things isn't all that easy

Our boatman started the engine and began to maneuver the craft away from the confusion of boats and into clear water. Once there, he gave it 'the gun' and to the excitement of Lidy, as we pulled away, we started to aquaplane.

Our boatman gave it "the gun" and we were off!

There seemed to be many canals that we traveled through and some of them were just wide enough to allow two longtailed boats to pass - just.

The canals are so narrow you wonder if two boats could fit side by side

These canals wind out through the countryside and as we shot past, we could see many aspects of day to day life being played out before our eyes.

Past the white Buddha

At every opportunity, our boatman would wind the big V8 motor up and we would take off. Lidy would get so excited she would let out a loud "Whooooop!!!" The enjoyment was written all over her face.

Lidy just loves it when we go FAST!

The 'taxi-bikes' can travel along the narrow wooden jetties that serve as a footpath and road outside the canal people's homes.

Taxi bike plying his trade along the narrow jettys

At long last, we started to notice some floating stalls and shops. At this time our boatman shut the big V8 down to a burbling idle and we crept forward so as not to scuttle the vendors with our wash.

Coming into the market area

Then it was around the next bend and all of a sudden we were in the thick of the floating market. Because we had left so early and had the first and fastest boat, we were among the first to arrive and the scene that greeted us was relaxed and friendly with most of the shoppers being local Thais essentially shopping for food.

The floating market early morning

Getting out of our craft, we tipped the boatman and set out to regain our land legs. Our private guide said his farewalls for the time being: "You can shop and walk around for two hours. I will drink coffee at the coffee shop." Lidy had already switched to shopping mode and disappeared into the nearest clothing store. Russell was looking for a Thai Saw U that he was determined to bring back and learn how to play.

Confusion reigns as the landlubbers breakfast before starting their day

Lidy found the toilets and was confronted by a cheerful woman who would sell her two tissues of toilet paper for about fifteen cents Australian.

Peace - and will that be two tissues with your toilet?

Then the tourists arrived. All of a sudden it was congestion and chaos. Hand paddled boats jockeyed for position with motorised longboats, the stall holders called out their wares in a peculiar mixture of Thai and broken English and the whole market erupted into a cacophony of sight and sounds.

Oh no. The bloody tourists have arrived

At the other end of the market, Russell had decided to hire his own boat and was busy negotiating a fair price.

No, that's too much. How about dropping 5 Baht?

The price negotiated, Russell and Lidy set off in search of the Saw U. Unfortunately, the boat Russell had hired was facing the opposite direction to where he had been told the Saw U seller was located. This necessitated us taking a precarious trip past the hoards of bartering, frenzied tourists until we got to some clear water where the boat could be turned around.

I should always be treated like this...

At each stall, the boatman would paddle us in close so that the stall holder could harangue us with her spiel in Thai and broken English.

The stall holders sit cross-legged on their small craft for hours at a time

On the way back through the thronging mass of tourists, we got stuck in a traffic jam. Nothing moved until the tourists in the boat five ahead of us had purchased some artifact or other.

"Ram them, Mr Maryk..."

Not satisfied with progress, Russell assumed the captaincy. "Pull to port..." "Come around ten degrees, port..." "Steady as she goes..." "Ahoy there: Turn to Starboard, this vessel has right-of-way!"

The market hots-up into a buying frenzy

Eventually, we arrived at the Saw U stall and Russell started the negotiations. The bartering went on for fifteen minutes. At one stage, Russell exclaimed: "Your price is too high. You must come down or I will buy elsewhere..." The vendor retorted: "I have only Saw U stall in whole market!" Russell looked at our boatman. He nodded with a wry smile and shrugged at Russell.

"I have only Saw U in whole market!

The negotiations continued in a mixture of broken Thai and broken English with, at one stage Russell and the vendor exchanging a piece of paper with the negotiated figures written on it so as to overcome the language barrier. Thankfully, they came to a price they could both agree upon and to the excitement of both Lidy and our boatman, the deal was concluded.

Got it!

A a quick tune-up and a final test tune and Russell has his instrument. Now, only one potential problem remains. Can Russell get it past Australia's strict quarantine laws?

And this is how you tune it...

The robbed that smiles, steals something from the thief. - William Shakespeare, Othello

The Pickpocket

It was late afternoon and I had left Lidy at the hotel while I planned to walk to one of the department stores to do some shopping. Part of the route to the shops led me through a narrow section of the marketplace where there were literally hundreds of people passing through in either direction as well as people shopping at the stalls on either side. It is normally difficult to pass through this area and it is common to be jostled by others as you move. There are also frequent halts as someone in front of you stops to haggle with a stall holder.


As I was passing through the narrow section, I felt someone pushing me from behind with their shopping bag. This wasn't unusual as different people wish to get through at different speeds. I tried to move to the left to let the person past, but they seemed to move left at the same time, still pushing me to go faster. I moved right and at the same time they also moved right. I continued on, trying to move faster and at one point, I put my hand in my pocket to check my wallet. I carried two wallets, in different pockets, in case of pickpockets and I checked them (and in fact all my pockets) regularly.

Imagine my surprise when I placed my hand into my right hand pocket and I found another hand in there! I automatically grabbed the wrist and yanked the hand out. Suddenly, a woman who I noticed was attached to the hand started screaming in Thai and pulled at my hand. I was so shocked that I let go of her hand and she literally disappeared into the crowd.

I checked my wallets. They were still there. My back pocket had suffered from a razor blade attack on the stitching of the fastener (supposedly so I wouldn't feel her opening the fastener.)

The thing that amazes me is that she was able to target only the two pockets that contained wallets and money. All my pockets were full of bulky items that could be mistaken for wallets, (camera, three phones, maps) she seemed to know instinctively which ones to go for.

And though you live in a palace of gold, or sleep in a dried up ditch, You could never be poor as the fairies are, and never as rich - Rose Fyleman

The Grand Palace

Ask anyone who has been to Bangkok what their 'must see' list is and without fail they will always include The Grand Palace, which houses a number of attractions including Wat Phra Keow (Temple of the Emerald Buddha).

Warning sign before entering the Grand Palace

On our guard against 'WILY STRANGERS' and dressed accordingly, we enter the Grand Palace. The palace proper is guarded by platoons of soldiers and, they mean business. All are armed to the teeth and their rifles are loaded!

The guard at the entrance - Yes! Real bullets!

Passing through the main gate, we are scrutinised by a soldier who will approach any 'farang' inappropriately dressed, denying entry and directing them to a booth where more appropriate clothing can be hired for a small fee on surrender of a passport.

Visitors are scrutinised for correct dress

His decisions are backed up by an impressive show of force nearby.

Platoons of soldiers are stationed in and around the Grand Palace

Once through the main gate, we join the crowds of Thais and 'farangs' proceeding down the main boulevard toward the palace gates.

The entrance to the Grand Palace

The Hermit Doctor is the father of Thai herbal medicine. For Thais, a hermit is always treated as an important teacher. During his reign, King Rama I ordered the gathering of all the knowledge pertaining to traditional medicines and ancient skills from the Ayutthaya Period at the temple. The founder of the Chakri Dynasty believed the hermit doctor's different exercise poses were relaxing therapeutic exercise that could ease physical pains and aches. The figure below is a seated hermit doctor of Thai Medicine. The statue is behind the ordination hall. It was made during the time of King Rama III.

The 'Hermit Doctor'

Wat Phra Keow , The Temple of the Emerald Buddha or, more correctly Wat Phra Sri Ratana Sasadaram. The Chapel Royal of The Emerald Buddha consists of all the architectural features of a monastery without the residential quarters, for monks do not live here. The Assembly Hall, or Ubosoth, serves as the monarch's private chapel.

The entrance to Wat Phra Keow is guarded by giants

The centerpiece of the Grand Palace complex is the 45 centimeter Emerald Buddha. Carved from just one piece of Jade it is the holiest and most revered religious object in Thailand. The Emerald Buddha is housed within Wat Phra Keow. It is an object of national veneration and crowds come to pay respect to the memory of the Buddha and His Teachings on the days of the week when the temple is open to the public.

The Emerald Buddha sits high up on an altar of gold designed to represent the traditional aerial chariot (Busabok, Sk. Pushpaka) attributed to Hindu gods in murals.

Photographs cannot be taken inside Wat Phra Keow. An allowance is made for visitors who wish to take a photograph of the Emerald Buddha and, that is from an area outside the front doors of the temple. If your camera is good enough, you can capture an image of the Emerald Buddha through the front doors using only the prevailing light inside the temple.

The Emerald Buddha

The Royal Pantheon is where statues of past sovereigns of the ruling dynasty are enshrined.

The Royal Pantheon building, with gilded chedis on both sides

Built in traditional Thai architecture mixed with European designs, The Grand Palace complex, once the official home for the Kings of Siam, is unquestionably one of the Thailand's major tourist highlights. The King still uses the Grand Palace for certain ceremonial occasions and the regal flavor within its enormous royal grounds is still evident.

The Chakri Maha Prasat hall was built by King Chulalongkorn, Rama V (1868-1910) who used it as his principal residence. Only the reception portion is used today. It consists of two wings used for reception purposes which are decorated with galleries containing works of art. In between is the central throne-hall which was formerly used for the reception of foreign envoys.

The Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

The Thailand Military are ever present. In groups of two, three, four or more soldiers in full dress uniforms, they march around the complex with fixed bayonets and will take action agains any 'farang' who breaches protocol.

Soldiers in full dress uniform keep an eagle eye on 'farangs'

In the distance, one can see the Royal Funeral Hall. Currently off limits to visitors other than mourners (Thai citizens dressed in mourning black) of the late Princess Galyani Vadhana, who lies in state inside the building until her funeral in two month's time.

In the distance, The Royal Funeral Hall

A quick right turn took us to the gate by which we had entered the palace complex. And then it was time to leave...

Leaving the Majesty of the Grand Palace

Outside the main gate: Back to reality

Nemo ante mortem beatus - Nobody is blessed before his death. We never know what the future is preparing for us! - Latin Proverb

Wat Pho - The Temple of the Reclining Buddha

Wat Pho or Wat Phra Chetuphon, the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok, is located behind the splendid Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It's the largest temple in Bangkok and famed for its huge and majestic reclining Buddha.

Wat Phra Chetuphon was built in the 16th century during the Ayutthaya period. The temple was almost completely rebuilt in 1781 by King Rama I and again a major restoration in 1839 which took seventeen years to complete by King Rama III. It features the largest reclining Buddha in Bangkok and the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand.

Built in the reign of King Rama III, this tremendous Buddha image measures 46 metres long and 15 metres high. The statue represents the Lord Buddha trying to overwhelm one of the powerful demons and to convince him that his power is not supreme. The figure is modeled out of plaster around a brick core and finished in gold leaf.

Mother-of-pearl inlay ornaments the eyes and feet displaying 108 different auspicious characteristics of a Buddha. The building was built later to cover the Buddha image.

The main gate

The massive hall which contains the Reclining Buddha image

The Reclining Buddha's feet are 3 metres long and exquisitely decorated in mother-of-pearl illustrations of auspicious 'laksanas' (characteristics) of the Buddha. The Reclining Buddha symbolises the passing of The Buddha into Nirvana (the state of absolute blessedness).

The Reclining Buddha is especially poignant for Lidy as Tuesday is Lidy's birth day and is also the day represented by the Reclining Buddha.

Lidy with her special Buddha image

Before leaving, Lidy and Russell leave alms for the Monks of Wat Phra Chetuphon by depositing individual coins in more than one hundred "begging bowls."

So many bowls, so little money

Meanwhile, outside the main temple a Buddhist school of young novices assembles to visit Wat Phra Chetuphon and to pray at the large temple alongside.

Like kids anywhere, these young boys are formed into a line by their teachers

Filing into the temple, the young boys and their teachers practice their devotions to Buddha in a series of moving chants that are so beautiful to hear.

Monks and novices make their devotions

Wat Phra Chetuphon became regarded as 'the first university in Thailand' when King Rama III ordered texts to be inscribed on stone slabs around the temple which people can read and learn from.

Medical texts inscribed on stone slabs form textbooks on anatomy

Outside, Wat Phra Chetuphon has a Siva Lingam, the phallic emblem representing the Hindu God Siva, one of the three greatest Hindu Gods.

The Siva Lingam at Wat Phra Chetuphon

Faith is the bird that sings when the dawn is still dark. - Rabindranath Tagore

Wat Arun - Temple of the Dawn

Wat Arun is named after the Indian god of dawn "ARUNA". It is a prominent Bangkok landmark and consists of a massive 104m high elongated Phra Prang (Khmer-style tower) which is surrounded by four smaller prangs. The larger finger like spire is raised on a series of terraces and is decorated with embedded pieces of multicoloured porcelain.

Four staircases and two publicly accessible balconies are a feature on the outside of the Phra Prang, affording panoramic views of Bangkok and the Royal Palace on the far side of the river. The name of this temple literary means "Temple of the Dawn" but the most beautiful view of it can be seen from the east side of the river at sunset.

Temple of the Dawn seen from the Chaopraya river

King Taksin chose Wat Arun for his Royal Temple and Palace and the Emerald Buddha was first housed here after it was recaptured from Laos before being move to Wat Phra Kaew in 1785. King Rama II and King Rama III reconstructed and enlarged the main Phra Prang to its present height of 104 meters. King Taksin's statue is afforded a prominent place nearby.

Statue of King Taksin

The imposing style of the Khmer-style “Phra Prang” or tower is quite different to other temples, making it an imposing Bangkok landmark. The pagoda is very high. You can walk up if you're not scared of the height when you walk down or, should I say: climb down.

The staircases are very steep and Russell has to steady himself on the stairs above

From the second balcony, the height may provoke feelings of vertigo

Much of the decorative material for the temple came to Bangkok as ballast on boats that had arrived from China. These range from the broken porcelain plates, bowls, cups and saucers used to decorate the walls to the Chinese statues dotted around the temple.

The chedi is decorated with thousands of pieces of porcelain

Look closely at the intricate temple ornaments, and these are mainly made of porcelain pieces - yes cups, saucers and plates. Recycled broken ceramics.

An example of the porcelain decoration

We are able to climb to the second balcony, but there are still three balconies above which are inaccessible to the public.

Three inaccessible balconies above

But even from the second balcony (half way up the Phra Prang and above the smaller Chedi's) the view is astounding.

The view down to the river from the chedi

The views from any standpoint are spectacular and across the river, one is able to see the Royal Palace and Wat Pho.

From the highest publicly accessible balcony, the Royal Palace can be seen

Getting back down the Phra Prang is not as easy as going up. The steep stairway means you must make sure you have a good grip on the handrails and watch your step.

Getting down to the ground is not so easy on the steep staircase