The robbed that smiles, steals something from the thief. - William Shakespeare, Othello

The Pickpocket

It was late afternoon and I had left Lidy at the hotel while I planned to walk to one of the department stores to do some shopping. Part of the route to the shops led me through a narrow section of the marketplace where there were literally hundreds of people passing through in either direction as well as people shopping at the stalls on either side. It is normally difficult to pass through this area and it is common to be jostled by others as you move. There are also frequent halts as someone in front of you stops to haggle with a stall holder.


As I was passing through the narrow section, I felt someone pushing me from behind with their shopping bag. This wasn't unusual as different people wish to get through at different speeds. I tried to move to the left to let the person past, but they seemed to move left at the same time, still pushing me to go faster. I moved right and at the same time they also moved right. I continued on, trying to move faster and at one point, I put my hand in my pocket to check my wallet. I carried two wallets, in different pockets, in case of pickpockets and I checked them (and in fact all my pockets) regularly.

Imagine my surprise when I placed my hand into my right hand pocket and I found another hand in there! I automatically grabbed the wrist and yanked the hand out. Suddenly, a woman who I noticed was attached to the hand started screaming in Thai and pulled at my hand. I was so shocked that I let go of her hand and she literally disappeared into the crowd.

I checked my wallets. They were still there. My back pocket had suffered from a razor blade attack on the stitching of the fastener (supposedly so I wouldn't feel her opening the fastener.)

The thing that amazes me is that she was able to target only the two pockets that contained wallets and money. All my pockets were full of bulky items that could be mistaken for wallets, (camera, three phones, maps) she seemed to know instinctively which ones to go for.

And though you live in a palace of gold, or sleep in a dried up ditch, You could never be poor as the fairies are, and never as rich - Rose Fyleman

The Grand Palace

Ask anyone who has been to Bangkok what their 'must see' list is and without fail they will always include The Grand Palace, which houses a number of attractions including Wat Phra Keow (Temple of the Emerald Buddha).

Warning sign before entering the Grand Palace

On our guard against 'WILY STRANGERS' and dressed accordingly, we enter the Grand Palace. The palace proper is guarded by platoons of soldiers and, they mean business. All are armed to the teeth and their rifles are loaded!

The guard at the entrance - Yes! Real bullets!

Passing through the main gate, we are scrutinised by a soldier who will approach any 'farang' inappropriately dressed, denying entry and directing them to a booth where more appropriate clothing can be hired for a small fee on surrender of a passport.

Visitors are scrutinised for correct dress

His decisions are backed up by an impressive show of force nearby.

Platoons of soldiers are stationed in and around the Grand Palace

Once through the main gate, we join the crowds of Thais and 'farangs' proceeding down the main boulevard toward the palace gates.

The entrance to the Grand Palace

The Hermit Doctor is the father of Thai herbal medicine. For Thais, a hermit is always treated as an important teacher. During his reign, King Rama I ordered the gathering of all the knowledge pertaining to traditional medicines and ancient skills from the Ayutthaya Period at the temple. The founder of the Chakri Dynasty believed the hermit doctor's different exercise poses were relaxing therapeutic exercise that could ease physical pains and aches. The figure below is a seated hermit doctor of Thai Medicine. The statue is behind the ordination hall. It was made during the time of King Rama III.

The 'Hermit Doctor'

Wat Phra Keow , The Temple of the Emerald Buddha or, more correctly Wat Phra Sri Ratana Sasadaram. The Chapel Royal of The Emerald Buddha consists of all the architectural features of a monastery without the residential quarters, for monks do not live here. The Assembly Hall, or Ubosoth, serves as the monarch's private chapel.

The entrance to Wat Phra Keow is guarded by giants

The centerpiece of the Grand Palace complex is the 45 centimeter Emerald Buddha. Carved from just one piece of Jade it is the holiest and most revered religious object in Thailand. The Emerald Buddha is housed within Wat Phra Keow. It is an object of national veneration and crowds come to pay respect to the memory of the Buddha and His Teachings on the days of the week when the temple is open to the public.

The Emerald Buddha sits high up on an altar of gold designed to represent the traditional aerial chariot (Busabok, Sk. Pushpaka) attributed to Hindu gods in murals.

Photographs cannot be taken inside Wat Phra Keow. An allowance is made for visitors who wish to take a photograph of the Emerald Buddha and, that is from an area outside the front doors of the temple. If your camera is good enough, you can capture an image of the Emerald Buddha through the front doors using only the prevailing light inside the temple.

The Emerald Buddha

The Royal Pantheon is where statues of past sovereigns of the ruling dynasty are enshrined.

The Royal Pantheon building, with gilded chedis on both sides

Built in traditional Thai architecture mixed with European designs, The Grand Palace complex, once the official home for the Kings of Siam, is unquestionably one of the Thailand's major tourist highlights. The King still uses the Grand Palace for certain ceremonial occasions and the regal flavor within its enormous royal grounds is still evident.

The Chakri Maha Prasat hall was built by King Chulalongkorn, Rama V (1868-1910) who used it as his principal residence. Only the reception portion is used today. It consists of two wings used for reception purposes which are decorated with galleries containing works of art. In between is the central throne-hall which was formerly used for the reception of foreign envoys.

The Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

The Thailand Military are ever present. In groups of two, three, four or more soldiers in full dress uniforms, they march around the complex with fixed bayonets and will take action agains any 'farang' who breaches protocol.

Soldiers in full dress uniform keep an eagle eye on 'farangs'

In the distance, one can see the Royal Funeral Hall. Currently off limits to visitors other than mourners (Thai citizens dressed in mourning black) of the late Princess Galyani Vadhana, who lies in state inside the building until her funeral in two month's time.

In the distance, The Royal Funeral Hall

A quick right turn took us to the gate by which we had entered the palace complex. And then it was time to leave...

Leaving the Majesty of the Grand Palace

Outside the main gate: Back to reality

Nemo ante mortem beatus - Nobody is blessed before his death. We never know what the future is preparing for us! - Latin Proverb

Wat Pho - The Temple of the Reclining Buddha

Wat Pho or Wat Phra Chetuphon, the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok, is located behind the splendid Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It's the largest temple in Bangkok and famed for its huge and majestic reclining Buddha.

Wat Phra Chetuphon was built in the 16th century during the Ayutthaya period. The temple was almost completely rebuilt in 1781 by King Rama I and again a major restoration in 1839 which took seventeen years to complete by King Rama III. It features the largest reclining Buddha in Bangkok and the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand.

Built in the reign of King Rama III, this tremendous Buddha image measures 46 metres long and 15 metres high. The statue represents the Lord Buddha trying to overwhelm one of the powerful demons and to convince him that his power is not supreme. The figure is modeled out of plaster around a brick core and finished in gold leaf.

Mother-of-pearl inlay ornaments the eyes and feet displaying 108 different auspicious characteristics of a Buddha. The building was built later to cover the Buddha image.

The main gate

The massive hall which contains the Reclining Buddha image

The Reclining Buddha's feet are 3 metres long and exquisitely decorated in mother-of-pearl illustrations of auspicious 'laksanas' (characteristics) of the Buddha. The Reclining Buddha symbolises the passing of The Buddha into Nirvana (the state of absolute blessedness).

The Reclining Buddha is especially poignant for Lidy as Tuesday is Lidy's birth day and is also the day represented by the Reclining Buddha.

Lidy with her special Buddha image

Before leaving, Lidy and Russell leave alms for the Monks of Wat Phra Chetuphon by depositing individual coins in more than one hundred "begging bowls."

So many bowls, so little money

Meanwhile, outside the main temple a Buddhist school of young novices assembles to visit Wat Phra Chetuphon and to pray at the large temple alongside.

Like kids anywhere, these young boys are formed into a line by their teachers

Filing into the temple, the young boys and their teachers practice their devotions to Buddha in a series of moving chants that are so beautiful to hear.

Monks and novices make their devotions

Wat Phra Chetuphon became regarded as 'the first university in Thailand' when King Rama III ordered texts to be inscribed on stone slabs around the temple which people can read and learn from.

Medical texts inscribed on stone slabs form textbooks on anatomy

Outside, Wat Phra Chetuphon has a Siva Lingam, the phallic emblem representing the Hindu God Siva, one of the three greatest Hindu Gods.

The Siva Lingam at Wat Phra Chetuphon

Faith is the bird that sings when the dawn is still dark. - Rabindranath Tagore

Wat Arun - Temple of the Dawn

Wat Arun is named after the Indian god of dawn "ARUNA". It is a prominent Bangkok landmark and consists of a massive 104m high elongated Phra Prang (Khmer-style tower) which is surrounded by four smaller prangs. The larger finger like spire is raised on a series of terraces and is decorated with embedded pieces of multicoloured porcelain.

Four staircases and two publicly accessible balconies are a feature on the outside of the Phra Prang, affording panoramic views of Bangkok and the Royal Palace on the far side of the river. The name of this temple literary means "Temple of the Dawn" but the most beautiful view of it can be seen from the east side of the river at sunset.

Temple of the Dawn seen from the Chaopraya river

King Taksin chose Wat Arun for his Royal Temple and Palace and the Emerald Buddha was first housed here after it was recaptured from Laos before being move to Wat Phra Kaew in 1785. King Rama II and King Rama III reconstructed and enlarged the main Phra Prang to its present height of 104 meters. King Taksin's statue is afforded a prominent place nearby.

Statue of King Taksin

The imposing style of the Khmer-style “Phra Prang” or tower is quite different to other temples, making it an imposing Bangkok landmark. The pagoda is very high. You can walk up if you're not scared of the height when you walk down or, should I say: climb down.

The staircases are very steep and Russell has to steady himself on the stairs above

From the second balcony, the height may provoke feelings of vertigo

Much of the decorative material for the temple came to Bangkok as ballast on boats that had arrived from China. These range from the broken porcelain plates, bowls, cups and saucers used to decorate the walls to the Chinese statues dotted around the temple.

The chedi is decorated with thousands of pieces of porcelain

Look closely at the intricate temple ornaments, and these are mainly made of porcelain pieces - yes cups, saucers and plates. Recycled broken ceramics.

An example of the porcelain decoration

We are able to climb to the second balcony, but there are still three balconies above which are inaccessible to the public.

Three inaccessible balconies above

But even from the second balcony (half way up the Phra Prang and above the smaller Chedi's) the view is astounding.

The view down to the river from the chedi

The views from any standpoint are spectacular and across the river, one is able to see the Royal Palace and Wat Pho.

From the highest publicly accessible balcony, the Royal Palace can be seen

Getting back down the Phra Prang is not as easy as going up. The steep stairway means you must make sure you have a good grip on the handrails and watch your step.

Getting down to the ground is not so easy on the steep staircase

Rivers are roads which move, and which carry us whither we desire to go. - Blaise Pascal

Bangkok's Klongs (Canals)

Today, we are going to explore Bangkok's klongs. Visitors to Bangkok in the early part of the 20th century saw canals crisscrossing the city and providing the chief means of moving around it, all feeding off the Chao Praya river where tradeboats came in. These klongs gradually succumbed to being filled in and turned into roads, generating the gridlock for which Bangkok has become notorious. But still in the heart of Bangkok lies a huge network of klongs where hundreds of people go about their daily lives, just the other side of the Chao Praya river from the huge skyscrapers of the financial district but seemingly a world away, Bangkok’s klongs are a magical place to visit and are a remarkable contrast to the frenetic pace of the rest of the city.

Our car arrived and we were only a little perturbed to discover it was a Volvo. Thankfully there was no hat on the back shelf.

Uhh, Ohh. It's a Volvo

We are taken to Saphan Taksin, the riverboat and BTS Skytrain stop where we are to meet our longtail boat and boatman. For Brisbane residents, it's interesting to know there is not just one River City!

River City - Feels just like home

Bangkok was founded on klongs. It was once called the "Venice of the East." They're not so important these days, the canals, but they do have great charm, and there's still life on them.

Our longtail boat

Riding a longtail boat is a bit of an adventure in itself - the distinct narrow, beautifully crafted wooden hull is powered by the famous longtail engine - basically a car engine with a propeller shaft attached. The longtails were made famous by the chase sequences in the James Bond flick The Man With The Golden Gun, and they can shift when the boatman opens up the throttle.

Through the lock

To enter the klongs, we pass through a lock which was built to prevent the houses along the canals flooding when the main river rises during the high tides of the monsoon season. Once through there (and sometimes it can take 15 minutes or so of waiting) we enter into the network of canals proper.

One enterprising lady who is a one-woman floating market, waited in her little boat for us to come along to buy some trinkets. She’s was very friendly and spoke very good English.

Hawkers ply their trade on the klongs

There are plenty of fish in the klongs and they will fight for a crust of bread if you throw it over the side as you go by.

Feeding the fish

The canals are quite narrow only about seven metres across. As we pass by, we notice there are numerous temples, shrines, restaurants and schools and we can see many of the locals going about their day.

A monk watches us go by

Clearly there are dangerous sections of the klong network. Approaching some sections where visibility was reduced, our boatman would reduce power and sound his fog horns, wakening everyone in a five hundred metre radius.

Our boatman deftly maneuvers his craft in the narrow waterways of the klongs

I couldn't help but notice the power poles set in the middle of the klongs. I can't help but imagine the difficulty of the linesmen who would have to scale them to repair the cables.

Delivering power to the houses in the klongs

And the most basic of services: garbage collection is carried out by a specially adapted barge and a team of cheery men who are only to happy to give us a wave as they go past on their daily duties.

Garbage collection - klong style

Lining the canals are all manner of houses from the most dilapidated to the impressively grand, all cheek by jowl with one another.

Our boatman guns the engine, and we are away!

"What we are today comes from our thoughts of yesterday, and our present thoughts build our life of tomorrow..." - The Buddha

Temple of the Golden Buddha

Wat Traimit might not rate a second glance if not for its astonishing Buddha image. Although the temple itself pales in comparison to other temples in Bangkok with its rather modest temple architecture, it is the Golden Buddha inside that attracts hundreds of visitors daily.


Wat Traimit is thought to date from the 13th century. The Golden Buddha image is about 900 years old and is cast in the Sukhothai style. The three meter high image of the seated Buddha is made of solid gold and weighs five and a half tonnes, the largest of its kind in the world. The story of the Golden Buddha is interesting because the statue was camouflaged to protect its identity. When the Burmese were about to sack the city, the Golden Buddha was covered in plaster to conceal it from the invaders. Obviously, the camouflage job turned out to be too good because when those responsible for covering it with plaster died, so did the true nature of the Buddha image inside. Two centuries later, still in plaster, it was thought to be worth very little.

But in 1957, when the image was being moved to a new temple in Bangkok, it slipped from a crane and was left in the mud by workmen.

In the morning, a temple monk, who had dreamed that the statue was divinely inspired, went to see the Buddha image. Through a crack in the plaster he saw a glint of yellow, and discovered that the statue was made of pure gold.

The Golden Buddha

This powerful Buddha image has such a bright, reflective surface that its edges seem to disappear and, it gleams with such richness and purity that even the most jaded are inspired by its strength and power.

Lidy has a close look

Paying respect to the Buddha

Russell was there too